Terroir Radical
Wines with ties
Julián Ruiz Zamora — El Regreso, Manchuela · Albacete
D.O. Manchuela · Albacete and Valencia · Castilla-La Mancha

El RegresoJulián Ruiz Zamora

Natural wine Biodynamic No added sulphites Ungrafted vines Rescued varieties

Julián Ruiz Zamora leads El Regreso, a natural-viticulture project in the Manchuela DO, across the provinces of Albacete and Valencia. Instead of betting on international commercial varieties, he rescues native Manchuela grapes —many of them minor, forgotten or from old, ungrafted vines, such as Marisancho, Jacivera, Tardana, Royal and Moravia Agria— with biodynamic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking: spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts, no additives, no added sulphites and no filtration. The result is free, vibrant, energetic wines that have taken Albacete's name to natural-wine fairs such as RAW WINE.

Manchuela, straddling the provinces of Albacete and Valencia, within the Manchuela DO. Julián's vines —old, ungrafted vines of native varieties— grow on the area's calcareous soil, where he works Marisancho, Jacivera, Tardana, Royal, Moravia Agria and Bobal.

  • Biodynamic farming and minimal-intervention winemaking
  • Spontaneous fermentations with native yeasts
  • No additives and no added sulphites (below 10 mg/l, entirely natural), unfiltered and unfined
  • Rescue of native varieties of Manchuela, many of them minor, forgotten or from old, ungrafted vines
  • Very varied vessels depending on the wine: amphora, stainless-steel tank, concrete and oak barrels (French and American)
  • La Mola — Marisancho + Macabeo · stainless steel and second-year French barrel
  • Gogo — Tardana + Royal · Tardana maceration and amphora ageing
  • Martirio — Marisancho + Moscatel · ancestral sparkling, 12 months in bottle
  • El Trato — Bobal + Moravia Agria · ungrafted vines · old French barrel, 24 months
  • El Regreso Marisancho — 100% Marisancho · ungrafted vines · second-year French barrel, 12 months
  • El Regreso Jacivera — 100% Jacivera · ungrafted vines · new American barrel, 12 months

Manchuela is a land of little-known native grapes, and El Regreso makes them its flag: whites, an ancestral sparkling wine, a skin-maceration wine and reds from local varieties, all spontaneously fermented and with no added sulphites. A way of understanding natural wine as viticultural archaeology.

// Wines in the TR catalogue

The collection at Terroir Radical

La Mola

La Mola · El Regreso · White Wine · Marisancho + Macabeo
Variety Marisancho + Macabeo
Winemaking Each variety is made separately; both destemmed and direct-pressed. Macabeo fermented and aged in stainless-steel tank for 11 months on fine lees; Marisancho aged in second-year French barrel for 11 months · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Acidity

An expressive, direct and fresh white blend, with clear hints of white fruit, citrus touches and wild flowers over a subtly mineral background. On the palate it is fluid, agile and dry, with very lively acidity and a slightly unctuous feel that invites another glass.

White fruitCitrus touchesWild flowersMineral depth
AperitifBoiled or grilled shellfishMediterranean seafood rice dishesTuna tatakiFresh or young goat's cheeses

Gogo

Gogo · El Regreso · Orange Wine · Tardana + Royal
Variety Tardana + Royal
Winemaking Each variety is made separately. Tardana destemmed and macerated on its skins for 6 days; Royal destemmed and direct-pressed. They are then blended and aged together in amphora for 11 months · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Tannins
Acidity

An orange wine of pale orange or amber hue, the result of macerating Tardana on its skins. The nose is very clean, dominated by fresh citrus notes (orange peel, grapefruit) and subtle touches of herbal infusion and dried fruit. On the palate it is extremely fluid and agile, yet with that characteristic, interesting tannic, structured grip on the sides of the tongue that skin contact gives.

Orange peelGrapefruitHerbal infusionDried fruit
Cured or semi-cured cheese boardsAsian cuisine (sushi, mildly spicy Thai curry)Oven-baked rice with porkSweetbreadsPoultry dishes

Martirio

Martirio · El Regreso · Sparkling · Ancestral method · Marisancho + Moscatel
Variety Marisancho + Moscatel
Winemaking Direct press co-fermented in a stainless-steel tank; 12 months in bottle before manual disgorgement, without freezing the bottle neck · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Acidity

Ancestral sparkling wine blending Marisancho and Moscatel. Fine, wild, well-integrated bubbles. On the nose it combines the aromatic, floral freshness of Moscatel with the rustic, fruity structure of Marisancho. It is dry on the palate, refreshing, with a very particular saline touch.

Fine bubblesFloral freshnessRustic fruitSaline touch
OystersFried fishSushiWarm saladsLightly spiced Thai dishes

El Trato

El Trato · El Regreso · Red Wine · Bobal + Moravia Agria
Variety Bobal + Moravia Agria
Vines Ungrafted Bobal and Moravia vines
Winemaking Bobal destemmed and macerated in stainless-steel tank for 20-21 days; Moravia destemmed and macerated in steel for 7-8 days. Fermentation then finishes and the wine ages in an old French barrel for 24 months · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Tannins
Acidity

A red that joins Bobal and Moravia Agria: the tannic structure and black fruit of Bobal with the freshness, lightness and piercing acidity of Moravia. The nose is complex, with hints of blackberries, black pepper, fallen leaves and calcareous touches. On the palate it has nerve, good tension and a long, wild finish.

BlackberriesBlack pepperFallen leavesCalcareous touches
Small game (partridge, rabbit)Grilled red meatsMedium-intensity La Mancha stews (morteruelo, gazpacho manchego)Sautéed mushrooms

El Regreso Marisancho

El Regreso Marisancho · El Regreso · White Wine · 100% Marisancho
Variety 100% Marisancho
Vines Ungrafted vines
Winemaking Destemmed and direct-pressed. Fermented and aged in second-year French barrel for 12 months · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Acidity

A single-variety white from the rescued Marisancho grape. It shows deep notes of ripe white fruit (pear, reineta apple), herbal scrubland touches, aniseed hints and a memory of yeast. It has great volume, density on the palate and a long finish with a very attractive mineral savouriness.

PearReineta appleScrubland herbsAniseed
Oven-baked oily fish (turbot or cod)Herb-roasted chickenMushroom risottosSemi-cured sheep's cheeses

El Regreso Jacivera

El Regreso Jacivera · El Regreso · Red Wine · 100% Jacivera
Variety 100% Jacivera
Vines Ungrafted vines
Winemaking Destemmed and macerated in stainless-steel tank for 7-8 days. It is then fermented and aged in new American barrels for 12 months · spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no added sulphites, unfiltered
Body
Fruit
Tannins
Acidity

A single-variety red from the extremely scarce native variety Jacivera. Medium-depth ruby colour. Very expressive on the nose, with notes of ripe, seasoned black fruit, together with very clean mineral and organic touches (wet earth, limestone). On the palate it is fluid, with friendly, polished tannins, and stands out for its authenticity.

Ripe black fruitWet earthLimestone
Legume stewsGrilled Iberian secretoOven-roasted vegetablesCured sheep's cheeses or aged Manchego
// Why Terroir Radical

Editorial note

Julián and I share the same philosophy: the recovery of ancestral grapes. Instead of betting on international commercial varieties, El Regreso focuses on rescuing native Manchuela grapes, many of them minor, forgotten or from old, ungrafted vines, and works sublimely with varieties such as Marisancho, Jacivera, Tardana, Royal and Moravia Agria. It is a method and a working philosophy that we share at Terroir Radical.

— Terroir Radical